One of our featured eco-elements, the tagua nut is becoming more popular as designer's seek to redefine luxury and preciousness. 

What is Designer Jewelry? We hear that designer jewelry brands are prestigious and sought after.  We read and see promotions and ads that inform us of the many brands and stores selling "designer jewelry."  When we look deeper though, some of those so-called designer brands are predominantly manufacturing the same-looking commercial jewelry one sees everywhere.  At first look, this shouldn't be a big deal. After all, aren't all jewelry designs made by designers?  Some person (or persons) had to design a piece of jewelry in order to be produced.  However, there is a real, tangible reason to appreciate Designer Jewelry as opposed to commercial jewelry.  Designer Jewelry does have a prestige and  grounds for admiration and appreciation. It's just that most people are not quite attuned or cognizant of the subtle, but significantly important distinction between Designer Jewelry and jewelry designs.

So what is the difference between jewelry designs and Designer Jewelry?  Why should one be interested in Designer Jewelry? Why should one know and inquire about this distinction?  Most importantly, why should one buy Designer Jewelry?

This post will be my nerdy, expansive (very expansive), and serious discussion into what is generally understood as "designer jewelry" and the appropriate designation of the genre. It is one humble perspective into the vastness of jewelry design. It is a discussion that should have been raised long ago. Perhaps it was discussed, and the jewelry industry decided to ignore the results. For whatever reason though, our wonderful jewelry industry is not categorizing Designer Jewelry in an appropriate way.  So this is my attempt to clarify to those who may be interested in knowing the clear distinction between jewelry designs and Designer Jewelry.

I will first display various types of generally understood designer jewelry and why those types cannot fulfill the definition of Designer Jewelry. Then, I will present a more-refined definition of Designer Jewelry.  I will also show a few more distinctions within the real Designer Jewelry segment. At the end of this exposition, one should come to the understanding that Designer Jewelry is jewelry that intimately and experientially connects the wearer to a certain point-of-view and to the designer who decided to express such perspective.  It is a harmonious resonance between you, the designer, and the many others who support and follow the designer. This distinction is precious and makes the customer and admirer feel fantastic. A passionate fine art jewelry collector can also intimately connect to a designer line if they are aware how involved the designer is to the actual physical production of the fine jewelry.

What is Designer Jewelry

If one "googles" "What is designer jewelry?" there is not one article or page that clearly defines what is Designer Jewelry. Wikipedia defines jewelry designs as "the art or profession of designing or creating jewelry."  Without a clear definition of what is Designer Jewelry, one assumes that Designer Jewelry is jewelry that is made by a designer and since all jewelry is made by some designer, then all jewelry must be designer jewelry.  This simply is not the case. Designer Jewelry needs to be distinguished from most, if not all, of our industry's jewelry.

As we develop a clear definition of Designer Jewelry, I would like to go through various types of jewelry that are generally understood as designer jewelry.  My investigation will focus on the distinction of "designer" in relation to his/hers intent, involvement, and expression.  After this categorization, we will be able to understand what Designer Jewelry is and is not.

Types of Commonly Understood "Designer Jewelry"

The following is a brief description of several different forms of jewelry brands or companies that are commonly understood as "designer jewelry" brands.  I will highlight their strengths and priorities; and what consumers might be drawn to that type of jewelry.  I will also point out how the name of designer jewelry is not an accurate description for these groups as their brand mission and intention do not satisfy the definition of Designer Jewelry.

When we look at jewelry online, in certain stores, and in the media, a large portion of the jewelry seen and bought is commercial jewelry. I define commercial jewelry as jewelry designs that are produced with the intention of maximizing that company or brand's general or current strength in the industry.  Whether that strength be gold, gems, diamonds, or design capacity, the company or brand intends to fabricate multiples of the same design. For example, there are some brands that have an immense investment and interconnection with the faceted diamond segment of our industry.  This strength needs to be maximized by creating designs that will exploit the diamond color, shape, size, or quality.  So as they design jewelry, the intent by the hired or contracted designer is to maximize said diamond characteristic.

That is not to say the designs are not elegant, beautiful, or worthwhile. Most of the jewelry that is considered "classic" have been developed by commercial manufacturers. They have a large budget to, among many other things, invest in designers who will produce many, many designs. Eventually and statistically, some of these designs will be very popular and considered "classics." This same classic design will be reproduced or slightly altered by other commercial jewelry manufacturers who's competitive advantage is manufacturing.

As such, customers and enthusiasts may want to buy or admire this type of jewelry designs because they are famous designs; they convey the current fashion trends; their prices, due to their mass production, benefit the customer; or because the brand is well recognized. For the most part though, such commercial jewelry designs are not sought after because the admirer shares the designer's vision or expression. 

In this type of jewelry designs, the designer is not recognized nor does the company promote the designer's vision or intention.  These jewelry brands usually promote their strengths.  For the example above of a strong faceted diamond company, the brand will promote the type of diamond quality or the name of a specialized diamond look, and not the meaning behind the design or the intention expressed by the designer. The priority for this type of jewelry is not the designer or his/her expression. It is whatever their competitive advantage is.  This jewelry should not be considered Designer Jewelry.

By "character" jewelry designs, I am referring to jewelry companies that brand their designs' character, intention, or expression. I am not referring to jewelry brands in general.  I am specifically referring to companies that brand their design makeup and style.  For example, there are some jewelry brands that are known for the way that their design's finish or shape is characterized. This distinction has become their brand recognition.  Their collection and all designs are based on that branded characteristic. Another example may be of a company who expresses a radical or rebellious attitude and brand their company that way.

In this scenario, designers may or may not be involved in the branding decision and message or mission statement.  So, although there is consistency in message and design, the designer may not necessarily be intimately connected to the brand.  Any designer can create jewelry based on the brand's character.  The designer's own passion and spirit may be hidden from the public.  So instead of calling this type of jewelry "designer jewelry" as the designer is not an important factor in the company, it should be called "Character" jewelry.

Consumers who might be interested in character jewelry are drawn to the look and character of jewelry.  A consumer's aesthetic would resonate well with the brand.  They might want to connect their wardrobe to the attitude of the jewelry. For the most part, it's the character and tone of jewelry that the consumer connects with, not necessarily the designer.

Unfortunately to date, there is no such specific distinction between the above mentioned "character jewelry" and "designer jewelry," and are usually meshed into one.  This does the consumer an injustice because such distinction would be fruitful to their buying decision—especially for future collection acquisitions. We like attaching ourselves to the fine art we invest in. Knowing more about the subtle distinction between jewelry that has a character or jewelry from a designer's intimate expression and philosophy would be an added benefit for all enthusiasts, aficionados, and cognoscenti.

Certain jewelry brands involve the designer in the character and intent of the brand.  However, the level of involvement or how many designers are involved is not disclosed or presented.  As such, this type of designer jewelry brand I call Inclusive Designer Jewelry. In this type, the connection to the designer's aesthetic and vision is stronger, though we are not certain whether the main designer designs all the jewelry.  One or more designers may be involved in the designer's mission or the designer has some input in the way the design looks but is not entirely involved in the whole design objective.

Customers or enthusiasts who would be interested in this type of Designer Jewelry enjoy the character and look of the jewelry and are proud that the designer's vision, though limited is included in the designs.

There are so many great designers out in the world that I cannot disregard their contribution to our industry.  The advent of computer-aided designs (CAD) have brought a lot capable graphic artists into the jewelry industry and many have not disappointed.  Many jewelry stores or companies also have a great team of goldsmiths and designers who can create that dream item that a customer has in their heart/minds.  There are also many great individual goldsmiths that design and create superb jewelry.  Does the fact that these groups design beautiful jewelry make their finished creations "designer jewelry?"  Custom or Bespoke jewelry is a very popular way to allow customers to be intimately involved in the design of their jewelry.  There are several ways a customer can play a role and the distinction is based on degree-of-participation.  The more the customer is involved in the design, the less the piece should be considered "designer" jewelry.

In the case where the customer is strictly involved, the customer consults with a jewelry designer with a specific vision and the designer satisfies said vision in a design. Advances in computer-aided design software has prepared a large cadre of CAD designers anywhere to create almost any jewelry design that a customer would envision. Whether a customer wants to reproduce a classic design or a design they found on the web; add some special, personalized elements to traditional looks; or has a particular artistic expression in mind, most CAD designers can create it.  Yet this type of jewelry can hardly be considered Designer Jewelry.  Sure, it was made and created by a jeweler and/or CAD designer, but the spirit of the jewelry is grounded on the customer's desires, not the designer's. The internet and your local custom jewelry store is a great source to get jewelry designed by CAD designers and professional jewelers.  However, I would resist to call this type of jewelry, Designer Jewelry.  Yet many stores and internet sites are calling themselves "Designer Jewelers."  This subtle distinction is not a simple play of words.  Some jewelry designs can be considered Designer Jewelry, but not all Designer Jewelry is made by jewelry designers.  Jewelry designers play an important role for those customers who envision and want a particular design but Designer Jewelry is founded on the spirit and intention of designer.

On another case, a customer might come with some materials: mementoes, pictures, loose gemstones, ring samples, etc., to a jewelry store/professional, and the customer simply wants the designer to make something with the provided materials. In this scenario, the jewelry designer plays a more significant role in crafting a design that would resonate well with the customer's materials.  The designer can use a variety of ways, including CAD, to design the item. Yet again, the designer can't be too intimately connected to the jewelry because he/she has to design within the parameters and expectations of the customer.  Though these type of jewelry designs have the designer participating more intimately in the spirit of the design, the intention and foundation is derived from the customer and not the designer.  This type of jewelry also cannot be considered Designer Jewelry.

One type of jewelry that can be considered "Designer Jewelry" is called Designer Commissioned Jewelry.  In Designer Commissioned Jewelry, a customer contacts a particular designer jeweler to commission a unique, one-of-a-kind design for that customer.  The designer might want to inquire the purpose, intention, or personality of the customer.  After receiving whatever context the designer would like from the customer, the designer proceeds in interpreting and designing, with his or her own spirit, character, and intention,the commissioned piece of jewelry.  This interpretation is a wonderful artistic expression and is by far one of the best forms of jewelry designs.  As long as the customer allows the designer freedom to create based on his/her own interpretation, thought process, and aesthetic milieu, the beautiful fine art should be considered Designer Jewelry.

Thus far, and for the most part, I have discussed brands or companies that do not directly or explicitly involve their designers in the brand's mission.  Some other designers are included in the brand's mission but do not have exclusive creative authority in the jewelry.  I have mentioned what kind of consumer might be interested in such jewelry.  I also discussed why one should understand the relationship between the Brand's mission and intention and the designer who creates the jewelry; and why it could be an important deciding factor when buying or admiring jewelry.

When attempting to refine the definition of designer jewelry, the obvious essential element is the designer.  Above, we noticed that in a large portion of the commonly understood "designer jewelry" market, the designer is not intimately connected with the brand or company. Yet most consumers are not aware of this very fundamental distinction.  Ultimately, Designer Jewelry should be clearly defined as:

Another interpretation was provided by Andrea Hill: "A [jewelry] designer will have a clear point of view, a body of work that expresses that point of view, and a recognizable evolution in their thought process over time."

With this definition, consumers and enthusiasts understand whether they are buying or admiring true Designer Jewelry, or some other form of jewelry.  True Designer Jewelry carries prestige and admiration because one is drawn to the mindset and character of the designer.  The customer and aficionado wants to be intimately connected to the designer's philosophy, spirit, message, and aesthetic.  Designer Jewelry therefore must be strictly connected with the designer and his/her background.  Any other types of jewelry designs should not belong in the same category.

As the above definition clearly distinguishes what Designer Jewelry is. I now want to point out three more types of true Designer Jewelry with various degrees of designer and production involvement from the designer. After all, a designer can input all the intention, mission, spirit, and character into the jewelry designs but not necessarily have the ability to participate in all facets of design and production of the actual jewelry.  Therefore, I will highlight a few divisions that consumers might be interested in distinguishing for a more intimate connection to the jewelry one buys and collects.

Types of Designer Jewelry

 Exclusive Designer Brands-Non-Production

This type of designer brands are strictly connected with the designer's vision and character and all the designs are developed and created by the designer.  However, the designs are not produced by the designer. The designer is only involved in the creation of the design and intention, not the crafting of the jewelry. These brands either have their in-house goldsmiths produce the jewelry; have outside contractors to manufacture various aspects of production; or a combination of both.

Those consumers who want to be intimately connected to the designer's design intention and expression would be satisfied with this type of designer brand.  One could resonate with the designer's style, aesthetic, and spirit. One can experience the same love of the designs that the designer and his/hers customers, enthusiasts, and cognoscenti enjoy.

Exclusive Designer Brand-Production Involved

Some consumers would like to feel even more intimately connected to the designer by wanting to wear and showcase jewelry that is designed by the designer and also produced by the designer.  This is the purest form of Designer Jewelry and the highest degree of artistic expression.  A consumer can rest assure that their jewelry has been created to the exact specifications and intention that the designer wants to express.

This type of designer brand has the designer fully involved in the craftsmanship of the jewelry along with the intention and mission of the designs.  The designer involvement in the production can vary in degree. The designer can be the full manufacturer of the piece, or the designer can be involved in one or more aspects of the manufacturing process.

At any rate, this type of jewelry brand would express the full definition of Designer Jewelry as the designer is completely involved in the design and production of the jewelry.  The customer can feel confident that the jewelry they buy is to the standard of the designer.  If the customer wants to consider collecting the designer's designs, the customer would be pleased that the designer will always be involved in all aspects of the creation and evolution of the collection.  This artistic and craftsmanship gratification is unparalleled in any other type of jewelry. It simply makes the wearer feel blissful. 

Why is Designer Jewelry Sought After and Admired?   Why Buy Designer Jewelry?

 Above, we discussed that true Designer Jewelry is jewelry designed with the designer's artistic spirit, intention, and expression in mind.  For all intents and purposes, designer jewelry is jewelry art—it is a creative expression of an individual's imagination, character, or philosophy. So Designer Jewelry is sought after because creative expression is rare, precious, and can resonate with a person's mindset or a mindset of a culture, or society.  We admire art that can connect with us in different levels. Aside from an aesthetic resonance, jewelry that speaks to us—that can speak to others about ideas we cherish—is truly something beautiful.

With this in mind.  One buys and becomes an enthusiast or collector because the intimate connection between the designer's intent and the buyer resonates loudly. This intimate resonance feels private, unique, and is a source of pride and confidence that one would want to share and wear.  Where some buy jewelry to show status, those who buy designer jewelry show statements. These statements may or may not show status.  What is truly important to the buyer and enthusiast is that one intimately connects to the expression and to those who agree and admire that expression beyond aesthetics.  This is the true preciousness of Designer Jewelry and why one would want to buy it.

Closing Remarks:  Make Sure You are Buying True Designer Jewelry

Now that one understands the distinction between jewelry designs and Designer Jewelry, one can truly determine if Designer Jewelry is what one wants.  If you want to find a finely crafted piece of art that happens to express an idea that you intimately resonate with, then you want to buy Designer Jewelry.  If you want to wear and flaunt a certain expression or idea that a designer integrated in their jewelry designs, then you want to buy Designer Jewelry.  If you admire and appreciate a consistent artistic expression that is created and it evolves through time, then you want to buy Designer Jewelry.

If you are unsure whether a piece of jewelry is indeed Designer Jewelry. I do encourage everyone to inquire into the designer's participation.  Ask: What did the designer want to express in this design?  Was the designer involved in the intention and character of the design? Who designed this piece? What is his role in this design's expression?  If the answer shows you that the designer or designers were not intimately connected with the intention, spirit, or message of the finished jewelry, then it probably isn't Designer Jewelry.

In closing, I must express that this is my humble exposition into a distinction that I feel should be more apparent within our jewelry industry.  Perhaps it is not apparent for the sake of mutual co-existence.  For those conspiracy theorists, perhaps our industry's greater powers decided to squash this distinction for their own benefit. Perhaps, the distinction is too complex for the industry to categorize and promote in an appropriate manner. Whatever the reason is, I feel that the buyers, collectors, aficionados, and cognoscenti of our wonderful industry deserve to understand and distinguish this difference.  This can be an ongoing conversation and I encourage anyone to contact me regarding this distinction and we can discuss it as an open forum. I hope this presentation brings light to the spectacular world of Designer Jewelry.

Are you in the market to purchase a piece of fine jewelry with gems either for yourself or for that special someone?  Aside from the considerations of: design or look; gems of choice; and type of jewelry (Engagement Ring, Necklace, Pendant, Earrings, etc.), the quality of the craftsmanship should also be looked at carefully.  Some buyers prioritize on gem size and quality.  For those who do, I encourage you to review this article just so that you can understand some elements that will surround your gem of choice.  Some buyers prioritize the look of the jewelry: how blingy; how dainty; or how elegant, rather than the actual longevity of piece of jewelry.  For that special group that can afford that priority (Must be nice), I guess you can skip this article.  For all others who do want to prioritize quality but do not really know what to look for, this is the article to read.  Here are the 6 features or considerations to look for when buying quality fine jewelry with gems.

This article is the closing remarks of a longer article that will be posted in a couple of weeks.  For a summary, please see 6 Tips in What to Look For When Buying Quality Jewelry.  Please sign-up to receive the more detailed future posts.

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Quality Feature for Further Discussion

One feature that I was tempted in including in regards to quality, is the feature of the quality of the designer/crafter.  Why did the designer/crafter make this piece?  What is the meaning of the piece of jewelry? What does he/she believe is quality?  How do they relate to society and its demands of fair trade, sustainability, and eco-consciousness?  Aside from following ethical practices (as we hope they do), what is the ethic of the designer/crafter?

After all, why not judge the craftsmanship of a piece of jewelry by the quality of the crafter/designer?

I felt that this element was better suited for another article on another time.  Especially because this type of quality feature would be important only if you want to buy a meaningful piece of jewelry.  If you want to buy a piece of jewelry that looks beautiful and has valuable, rare jewels without any particular meaning, then this feature would not apply.

At any rate, I wanted to mention it here as consideration or an invitation for further thought.

This concludes my 6 tips on what to look for when buying quality fine jewelry.  Stay tuned for the full article on the next post.

Are you in the market to purchase a piece of fine jewelry with gems either for yourself or for that special someone?  Aside from the considerations of: design or look; gems of choice; and type of jewelry (Engagement Ring, Necklace, Pendant, Earrings, etc.), the quality of the craftsmanship should also be looked at carefully.  Some buyers prioritize on gem size and quality.  For those who do, I encourage you to review this article just so that you can understand some elements that will surround your gem of choice.  Some buyers prioritize the look of the jewelry: how blingy; how dainty; or how elegant, rather than the actual longevity of piece of jewelry.  For that special group that can afford that priority (Must be nice), I guess you can skip this article.  For all others who do want to prioritize quality but do not really know what to look for, this is the article to read.  Here are the 6 features or considerations to look for when buying quality fine jewelry with gems.

This article is part 6 of a longer article that will be posted at the completion of the all the parts.  For a summary, please see 6 Tips in What to Look For When Buying Quality Jewelry.  Please sign-up to receive the more detailed future posts.

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 6.  What to Look for in a Quality Gem

There are so many great educational articles in the internet that would do a better job informing you of how to look for a great quality gem.  Some obvious places to look for great material would be from the main gemological laboratories that certify the gems we purchase.  The most reputable source in the US for all gems is GIA and for diamond education specifically, I like AGS.  GIA (Gemological Institute of America) has a great encyclopedia of gems, each having its own buyer's guide.  AGS (American Gemological Society) also has a buyer's guide but what I like more about AGS is its focus on the diamond's scintillation--the brilliance of the diamond.  There are many other sites out there with additional tips and pointers and I will occasionally update this post to add a few more later.  To keep it simple, go to the source that certifies most gems like the above mentioned.  

That being said, I will add a few cents on what I prioritize.  My pointers should only be used as reinforcement to those great articles out there and not as a primary source.

In the case of diamonds, there are many factors involved in selecting a center stone, if one of your main factors is sparkle or, like the kids call it, "bling"--officially called "scintillation" by AGS--then the cut of the diamond should be the absolute priority in selecting diamonds.  The cut of the diamond is the main feature of a diamond that returns light to your or that special someone's eyes.  The better the cut, the more accurate the return of light to the eyes, and the amount and array of color that will return to the viewer.  This should apply to any size of diamond equally.  Even small diamonds should sparkle like the rock stars that they are.  For smaller diamonds, also known as melee diamonds, excellent or ideal cut diamonds are recommended.

For center stones, the hierarchy in grading the cut of high quality diamonds should be at the very least Very Good in GIA or AGS2 for AGS and at the best Excellent for GIA or AGS0 if it is graded by AGS.  I recommend maximizing the cut's three subgrades (For GIA: Cut-Excellent; Polish-Excellent; Symmetry-Excellent).  For AGS: Light Performance 0; Polish-0; Symmetry-0).  There is some confusion with the different cut grades from GIA and AGS.  The simplest way to look at it is to focus on the three sub-categories of cut and go for the highest grade you can afford.  For more info on the confusion and some further clarity visit this post.

The carat weight, color, and clarity are important also, but I would sacrifice any of them, to get the best sparkle possible.  If you would ask me to prioritize, I would say: Cut, Color, Carat Weight, Clarity.

For color faceted gems, the simplest way to evaluate these gems are by color, color intensity specifically.  Again, I invite you to visit GIA for more in-depth details.  Whatever color you are looking for, make sure that the color is rich and it is not faint or too dark.  If you want to delve deeper into quality, then check the enhancements on the color.  The less enhancements (heat treated, color treated, etc.) the rarer and better the gem.  If you want to delve even further, then look at the quality of the facets or cuts in the gem.  There should be nice symmetry and proportionality in the facets.  If you want to go even deeper than that, first of all, you are into a world of hurt, but you can educate yourself as much as you want in the internet.

For other gemstones or semi-precious stones.  It gets a lot more subjective.  There are rare gems and stones, so there's that, but there are some gems that are not rare but can have a lot of character or significance.  Make sure that the stones are natural.  There are some that are treated for stability and there are others that are rare versions of opulent stones or gems.  Every gemstone and semi-precious stones require a unique set of factors to evaluate, so use the internet.

So this is the take-home point:

Diamond cut matters for sparkle; pure colors, enhancements, and cut symmetry matters in color faceted gems; everything else, check GIA, AGS, and the internet.

This concludes my 6 tips on what to look for when buying quality fine jewelry with gems.  Stay tuned for my final installment on this topic that will detail some further considerations and closing remarks.  Please subscribe.

Are you in the market to purchase a piece of fine jewelry with gems either for yourself or for that special someone?  Aside from the considerations of: design or look; gems of choice; and type of jewelry (Engagement Ring, Necklace, Pendant, Earrings, etc.), the quality of the craftsmanship should also be looked at carefully.  Some buyers prioritize on gem size and quality.  For those who do, I encourage you to review this article just so that you can understand some elements that will surround your gem of choice.  Some buyers prioritize the look of the jewelry: how blingy; how dainty; or how elegant, rather than the actual longevity of piece of jewelry.  For that special group that can afford that priority (Must be nice), I guess you can skip this article.  For all others who do want to prioritize quality but do not really know what to look for, this is the article to read.  Here are the 6 features or considerations to look for when buying quality fine jewelry with gems.

This article is part 5 of a longer article that will be posted at the completion of the all the parts.  For a summary, please see 6 Tips in What to Look For When Buying Quality Jewelry.  Please sign-up to receive the more detailed future posts.

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5.  Check metal thickness in key areas

(Due to time constrains, images will be updated at a later time)

People should grant metal thickness a liberal judgment because there are many reasons that thickness is made the way it is.  There are only a few exceptions where the long term quality of your piece is influenced heavily by the thickness of the metal.

We saw above that the thickness of the setting is important on the top of the gem/s.  In this case, I want to address the thickness underneath the setting, especially in rings.  When we look at the body of a gemstone/s the bottom portion of the gem, usually the conical area of the bottom of the gem is called the culet.  Depending on the type of setting and design, some culets are hidden and some are showing.  Whether it is covered or not, there has to be enough metal between the end of the culet and end of the metal so that as the metal wears, the culet of the gem/s does not stick out of the metal.  For example, if the thickness of a gem is 1mm thick, there should be at least 1.5mm of metal from the top of the gem/s and the bottom/back of the metal.  If there is less than 1.5mm of metal, the wear or a few maintenance polishes may reduce the metal in the bottom/back of the jewelry, exposing the culet from the bottom/back.  As you evaluate jewelry for quality, imagine or physically measure the thickness of the gem/s and imagine or measure the thickness of the bottom/back of the metal.

On rings, make sure that the thickness of the bottom part of the shank—the base—of the ring is proportional to the top part of the sides of your ring.  I would consider a 2.0-2.5mm base a healthy one.  There are many exceptions that can contradict this rule so please do not hold me on this.  The point is to carefully evaluate the base of the shank as that area is the area that will wear the most, especially if your karat metal is lower.

On earrings, look for metal thickness in the posts and backs.  The heavier or thicker the posts and friction backs, the better quality the earrings.  It is not cheap to place heavy weight posts and backs on earrings.  In fact, not many jewelers place them.  But the type of friction that posts go through require a solid heavyweight set of posts and backs.  If you are considering leverbacks, omega backs, or any kind of clip earring, make sure that those levers are healthy and thick.

On pendants or necklaces, check the strength and integrity of the moveable parts.  Some pieces of jewelry may look beautiful but because the seller may have had them for a long time, those moveable parts may be compromised.  Evaluate especially the jumprings (the little o rings that connect components together).  Jumprings should have a proportional thickness all the way around.  The area with the most friction tends to be worn out more than others, so check that.  Another area to check is the clasp area in the back of the chain.  Lobster clasp or some well made custom clasps are preferable.  Next to the clasps, there are a set of jumprings or the like that connect the chain to the clasp.  This is area is often ignored as a priority.  Check for a thick jumpring or connection that is not worn.

So this is the take-home point:

Check some key areas in the jewelry to make sure that metal thickness is proportional and sufficient for a long-term life.

I cannot do a quality article without mentioning gem quality.  Stay tuned for the second to last installment.

Are you in the market to purchase a piece of fine jewelry with gems either for yourself or for that special someone?  Aside from the considerations of: design or look; gems of choice; and type of jewelry (Engagement Ring, Necklace, Pendant, Earrings, etc.), the quality of the craftsmanship should also be looked at carefully.  Some buyers prioritize on gem size and quality.  For those who do, I encourage you to review this article just so that you can understand some elements that will surround your gem of choice.  Some buyers prioritize the look of the jewelry: how blingy; how dainty; or how elegant, rather than the actual longevity of piece of jewelry.  For that special group that can afford that priority (Must be nice), I guess you can skip this article.  For all others who do want to prioritize quality but do not really know what to look for, this is the article to read.  Here are the 6 features or considerations to look for when buying quality fine jewelry with gems.

This article is part 4 of a longer article that will be posted at the completion of the all the parts.  For a summary, please see 6 Tips in What to Look For When Buying Quality Jewelry.  Please sign-up to receive the more detailed future posts.

4.  Look at the top thickness of the setting

All types of setting/s should have a substantial amount of metal on top of the setting, above the gem/s.  The way you can check for thickness is by imagining or physically placing your nail on the gem/s and sliding your nail towards the setting as if you were about to guitar pluck the setting.  If your nail catches on the setting, you have a nice amount of metal above your gem/s to hold and later, to splatter and hug your gem/s.  The only exception I would mention is on micro-pave setting.  The beads are so small that it would be unfair to test it this way.  As long as the beads have enough buffer metal (you can use the nail thickness test on the buffer), and the micro-pave is used in the appropriate place and type of jewelry, the thickness of the setting should not be a factor.  Just make sure that the beads are indeed touching the gem/s.

So this is the take-home point:

Check the thickness of the setting.  It should have at least the thickness of your nail of extra metal above the gem/s.

Metal thickness is important both on the setting and the body of the jewelry.  Stay tuned for the next installment which will focus on some other areas that should be checked for strength and longevity.

Are you in the market to purchase a piece of fine jewelry with gems either for yourself or for that special someone?  Aside from the considerations of: design or look; gems of choice; and type of jewelry (Engagement Ring, Necklace, Pendant, Earrings, etc.), the quality of the craftsmanship should also be looked at carefully.  Some buyers prioritize on gem size and quality.  For those who do, I encourage you to review this article just so that you can understand some elements that will surround your gem of choice.  Some buyers prioritize the look of the jewelry: how blingy; how dainty; or how elegant, rather than the actual longevity of piece of jewelry.  For that special group that can afford that priority (Must be nice), I guess you can skip this article.  For all others who do want to prioritize quality but do not really know what to look for, this is the article to read.  Here are the 6 features or considerations to look for when buying quality fine jewelry with gems.

This article is part 3 of a longer article that will be posted at the completion of the all the parts.  For a summary, please see 6 Tips in What to Look For When Buying Quality Jewelry.  Please sign-up to receive the more detailed future posts.

3.  The Type of Setting Matters for the Longevity of Your Jewelry.

I know that when we buy jewelry with gemstones, we want to show the most amount of gemstone as possible.  There is a fine line though, between showing off the most amount of gem and keeping your gem/s secure.  Some types of settings show more of the gem/s than others but if you want to have a quality piece of jewelry that will last for a long time, considering the type of setting is important.

This opinion that I am about to provide will be very controversial to most people: The bigger the gemstone, the more the setting should cover the gem/s.  It is controversial because most folks want to show the least amount of metal around their gem of focus.  I usually do not recommend this.  I know that you spent a decent amount of money to purchase the gem but I feel that longevity is more important than showing-off.  

That means that a large percentage of engagement rings that are being sold with 4 prong or even some 6 prong settings are not to my "code."  Some exceptions to this rule are thick 4 prong settings (See left-Courtesy of Pampillonia Jewelers).  4 and 6 prong settings should be used more for non-wear-heavy jewelry but are usually used for the focal gem/s in rings.  For center gem/s, I usually recommend bezel, half bezel, or thick 4 prong settings.  Tension setting is also fine as they usually cover the gem significantly.  Engagement rings suppose to last the test of time so I want the settings to last a very long time. 

Now there are those who plan to buy an engagement ring for the short term for a wide range of reasons (like because they want something better, sooner.  No offense Aunt Judy).  For those on this trajectory, I guess none of this article applies to you.  For all others, I really recommend that you consider what type of setting maximizes the hold of your gem,

Wear-heavy jewelry needs to carefully consider the type of setting it utilizes.  If prongs or pave setting are utilized in wear-heavy jewelry, they should have a buffer from the edges that have the most wear.  The micro-pave trend that is happening now has many beautiful benefits, but I have many reservations of using this setting type in the edges of wear-heavy jewelry.  The tiny beads or prongs that hold the gem/s are just too small to be considered good quality if there is no metal buffer in the edges. 

There is no debate that the gem/s show beautifully in this type of setting, but it is inevitable that the beads/prongs will wear out and only highly trained jewelers will be able to replace those prongs.  I should know because I am one of those highly specialized jewelers that is able to replace those beads/prongs.  If the gem/s in question are color gemstones and not diamonds, the challenge escalates.

Although channel-set jewelry has gone out of fashion, gem/s set in this fashion are some of the most secure wear-heavy jewelry.  Burnish set wear-heavy jewelry should also have enduring quality as long as the burnish has been set with enough metal.  Non wear-heavy jewelry should be carefully evaluated by their type of setting as well.  In necklaces and pendants, you want to have a buffer on beads and prongs because otherwise they are prone to catch on clothes. On earrings, you should be freely chose whatever setting you prefer.

So this is the take-home point: 

The bigger the gem/s the more the setting should cover the gem.  Micro-pave and small prongs setting, in cases of heavier wear should have a buffer in the edges.

Now that we are focusing on the setting work.  There is one more feature regarding setting to carefully consider.  Stay tuned to the fourth installment.

Are you in the market to purchase a piece of fine jewelry with gems either for yourself or for that special someone?  Aside from the considerations of: design or look; gems of choice; and type of jewelry (Engagement Ring, Necklace, Pendant, Earrings, etc.), the quality of the craftsmanship should also be looked at carefully.  Some buyers prioritize on gem size and quality.  For those who do, I encourage you to review this article just so that you can understand some elements that will surround your gem of choice.  Some buyers prioritize the look of the jewelry: how blingy; how dainty; or how elegant, rather than the actual longevity of piece of jewelry.  For that special group that can afford that priority (Must be nice), I guess you can skip this article.  For all others who do want to prioritize quality but do not really know what to look for, this is the article to read.  Here are the 6 features or considerations to look for when buying quality fine jewelry with gems.

This article is part 2 of a longer article that will be posted at the completion of the all the parts.  For a summary, please see 6 Tips in What to Look For When Buying Quality Jewelry.  Please sign-up to receive the more detailed future posts.

2.  Look at the Brittleness of the Settings in Relation to Wear

Let's continue the conversation about the malleability or brittleness of jewelry.  When it comes to what is holding the precious gem/s of choice—known as the "setting," one should consider the malleability of the metal in relation to the wear.  Rings and bracelets (henceforth, "wear-heavy" jewelry) tend to wear more than pendant, necklaces, earrings, or brooches.  So the brittleness of settings become a factor in wear-heavy jewelry and less so in pendants, necklaces, earrings, or brooches (henceforth, "non-wear-heavy" jewelry).

I have been setting gems for 25 years.  I have set all sorts of setting styles: from center stone settings; to cluster prongs; to channel setting; bezel setting; pave setting; invisible setting; and now, the micro-pave fad.  One consistent observation that I notice in the long-term quality of jewelry is: 14k white gold and below (10K, 9K, etc) that have any kind of setting will have more problems holding its gems through time.  Most likely, one will need to visit your local jeweler to take care of noticeable loss of metal that is holding gemstones.

In order for gold to be "whitened" to make 14k white gold, hard, brittle alloys (mostly manganese and nickel) must be introduced to gold to make it more white.  14k rose and 14k yellow gold are not as brittle as 14k white gold because the alloys involved are more malleable (silver and copper), but are more brittle than 18k or platinum.

Whatever setting the jewelry is using to hold its gems, brittleness will significantly affect the strength and longevity of the setting.  The brittleness of the prong means that if a prong is caught on something and is being bent, it will more likely break or crack rather than bend.  Brittleness also causes the metal on the settings to lose metal much faster.  The less metal your setting contains, the more chances that your gems are in danger of being lost.

(Taken from our Esteemed Authorized Retailer and Jewelry Experts at Werkheiser Jewelers' Blog)

18k white gold is also a bit more brittle than 18k yellow and rose gold, but not enough to be a huge concern for reasons that I will explain below.

If you are thinking about buying non-wear heavy jewelry, the concern of wear decreases.  Therefore, your worry for your settings should be diminished (Wearing this kind of jewelry in physical activities, raves, or mosh pits are another thing altogether).

What I would recommend then, is that: If you are buying wear-heavy jewelry that have gems, avoid 14k white gold.

 If you have budget concerns and can only afford 14k gold, then stick with 14k yellow or rose gold  but also consider the "interesting phenomena" below.

Some might see the logic of brittleness and argue that malleability can also be a determent.  They would claim that if a setting is malleable then it is susceptible to being more easily bent or moved.  I would agree with this argument if we are talking purer platinum, and 22k or 24k wear-heavy jewelry with gems.  But 18k, 950 or 900 platinum have enough strength to hold a gem strongly and have less brittleness.  These parameters feel "just right" for me.

One interesting phenomena occurs with these "just right" parameters that not many people discuss online, or anywhere for that matter.  As the settings in this metal field go through wear and tear, these metals tend to "splatter" into the gem.  In other words, the type of wear that settings receive tend to be of the beating kind.  The metal gets beaten into the gems so much that the thickness of the setting gets reduced due to the fact that the metal gets "splattered" into the gem.  Although the setting metal is reduced, the metal is not lost, but rather splattered around the gem.  This splattering hugs the gem more, making the gems more secure, not less.  This special effect is more prevalent on platinum metal.  One reason that estate platinum jewelry looks so intact is due to this splattering/hugging effect.  For this reason, I value a more malleable combination than a more brittle one.  Especially on rings.

So this is the take-home point:

18k gold and 950 or 900 platinum settings hold the gemstones better than 14k, especially 14k white gold because as it wears the metal hugs gemstones wherein 14k white gold, gold is just lost.  This factor becomes more important in wear-heavy jewelry with settings holding gems such as rings.

That said, it is not enough to just buy jewelry that contain either of these preferable metals.  There is more to evaluate.  Stay tuned to the third installment.